DIY:

Paramotor Rebuilding

Rebuilding your Paramotor Requires Two Things Time & Patience

I purchased my Blackhawk R120 Paramotor used in February of 2012 and have in the time since put it to quite the use, accumulating 111 flights to date. The motor was coming up on 50 hours and seeing as that per the instruction manual it was due for a top-end teardown, I decided to jump in full-bore, common for how I usually do things. It was raining that day as well, and due to other commitments I had coming up for the following week, I knew I wouldn’t be doing much flying anyway. I apologize for the cheesy iPhone 3s pictures~ I didn’t have time to take proper documentation, as once into this project I found it to be quite consuming the deeper I went with things.


The manual calls for de-coking the cylinder head, exhaust port, and piston at 50 hours, and this is that process. To de-coke, I bathed the parts in Hopps Gun Solvent for the better part of the week.

Engine Teardown


I had the cage re-powder coated and changed everything but the main frames to candy apple red.

New powder coat


The underside of the cage was bare metal and dinged, so after sanding and powder coat I installed this automotive coolant hose on both sides to act as a pair of boots. This would also give the unit more traction when loading it into my truck’s slick plastic bed.

Frame Boots


The first piecing together of the cage again after powder coat. Things were tight! Note the spreader bars in the back ground ~ They were texture coated to give them a nice feel and make them stand out from the main frame pieces.

Going Together


After some reservation I went with safety wires as opposed to zip ties on the fuel lines. Probably didn’t need anything at all. I don’t know if I like this though, as now I have to check the lines periodically for chaffing. Probably wouldn’t do it again but time will be the greatest judge. Besides, I knew I had to safety wire the clunk to the fuel hose at the bottom of the tank. Why not keep going.

Questionable?


I went with a grip that has a flanged edge, to help keep stray fingers away from the kill switch, yet still leaving it accessible. Additionally, I replaced the velcro, as the old material was becoming hard to stick onto itself. Luckily my wife has a Serger machine.

Throttle Rebuild


Everything before putting back together. Notice I painted the prop tips. This was to make them a little more visible. Additionally I applied leading edge tape to the prop. I also replaced the harness and netting, installed a K&N air filter and replaced the aluminum carabiners with the steel versions.

All Ready to Put Back Together


The new air filter. Much more of a high pitch to the motor now. The jury is out on this one, but I have to admit that I do like the way it looks. A new fuel filter can be seen in the background – This one has replaceable inserts.

K&N


Finally all back together, and about to go fly for the first time..
Note: I also took a tachometer reading of the prop. The crankshaft spins at 9700RPM with a 4:1 reduction drive, so I was expecting to get a final prop RPM of 2425. I was surprised to see it was only making 2200 RPM. A quick adjustment of the mixture fixed that.

All Done